Technological development adoption and transfer in Textile sector of Bangladesh from the beginning till now.

Introduction

This rapidly growing sector of the Bangladeshi economy offers a unique competitive edge that supports profitable expansion into new strategic markets. From spinning to weaving, from knitwear to leisurewear and high street fashions, the textiles and clothing industry in Bangladesh biggest export earning sector. The Ready-Made Garments (RMG) industry occupies a unique position in the Bangladesh economy. It is the largest exporting industry in Bangladesh, which experienced phenomenal growth during the last 25 years. Bangladesh is blessed with a high demand of textiles and apparels from the globe.

The necessity of sustainable development of the sector for the sustainable development of our economy is undeniable. The industry plays a key role in employment generation and in the provision of income to the poor. Nearly four million workers are directly and more than twelve million inhabitants are indirectly associated with the industry. Over the past twenty five years, the number of manufacturing units has grown from 180 to over 4000. The sector has also played a significant role in the socio-economic development of the country.

The quota came to an end at 2004 but it continued to show robust performance, competitive strength and, of no less importance, social commitment. RMG’s contribution to Bangladesh economy is well-known, well-appreciated and well-respected.

Importance of Textile Industry in Bangladesh: 
The textile has been an extremely important part of socio-economic development for a very long time for a number of reasons:

·              The textile industry is connected with meeting the demand for clothing, which is a basic necessary of life.

·              It is an industry that is more labor intensive than any other in Bangladesh, and thus plays a critical role in providing employment for people.

·              It has contributed to employment creation, poverty reduction as well as women empowerment.

·              More than 81% of export earning comes from textile sector.

·              Contributes over 13% of GDP, 40% industrial value addition comes from the textile sector.

·              Provide huge opportunities for the supporting industry banking, insurance, shipping, transport, toiletries, cosmetics, hotel and other related economical activities.

·              Provide 55 lakh of employment where 80% are women

·              150 lakh of peoples in support industries depend on this trade.

·              Provides 2 lakh jobs in waste recycling industry related to textiles

Technological Advances in Textile Machines In Bangladesh

Knitting machines - Machines create knitted materials in large swaths of material now, instead of long strips that are then looped and sewn together

Pleating - Pleating can now be done solely by a machine and does not require laborers.

Laser printing - Just like later printing on paper, textile machines have been made to laser print onto clothing, like jeans and shirts. Designs are created on material more quickly and are more precise.

Digital printing - Layered printing has also been translated into clothing, which makes designs more complex.

3-D Printers - Although mostly found only in the high fashion community right now, 3D-printed textiles are now being used to create clothing. Companies like Nike are finding ways to use this technology to make innovative shoes. The hope is that, eventually, 3D printing will be used on thinner and resilient fibers to make actual, soft clothing.

Nanotechnology - This is the newest innovation and is still in the beginning stages. The textile industry is looking to use nanotechnology to create more scientific clothing, like water-repellent, self-cleaning, and fire-repellent items. Nanotechnology will also allow the textile industry to make products at lower energy thresholds, which helps to sustain the environment.

Present Scenario of Textile Sector in Bangladesh

A)    Spinning sector: 
Different types of yarns are produced at this sector. 100% of yarn is used in domestic and exported oriented weaving and knitting mills in Bangladesh. The situations of spinning sectors are given bellow:

o Optimum utilisation of fibre substance.
o Improved spinning stability.
o Ends-down rate reduced by up to 60%.
o Fibre loss reduced up to 0.01%.
o Fibre fly reduction in the spinning room.
o Possibility of reducing the twist by 10% and corresponding increase in the production.

o Other players in the compact spinning system are Toyota Way, Zinser, RocoS.

No of Spinning Mills

·              No. of spindle- 87 lakh

·              No. of rotor- 2.3 lakh

·              Production capacity-205.0 core Kg

·              Employment- 4 lakh

A)    Weaving section: 
There are various designs and structure oriented woven fabric are produced by this sector. Mainly plain weave fabric is major production. This sector can produce only 40% of woven fabrics for woven RMG. The situation of weaving sectors of Bangladesh are given below:

• Excellent quality fabrics with high productivity.
• Versatility, consistency and reliability of the machines.
• Better fabric engineering and creative weave patterns possible.
It is not just the three major concepts; Rapier, Air-jet and Projectile, but also a new one in the race, ‘Multiphase Weaving Concept’. Several features are common for the three weaving systems. All of these possess;
• Electronic monitoring and control systems, which increases the quality of the fabric and productivity.
• Cam, dobby and jacquard shedding systems can be used.
• Quick style change mechanism, which reduces downtime.
• Use of weft accumulators which almost provide a tension free weft insertion.
• Low vibrations due to rigid and sturdy frames.

 Weaving mills:

 

·              Looms -17,000 shuttle less and 13,000 shuttle

·              Production capacity- 215 core meter

·              Employment -80,000

Recent Developments: Weaving Technology

Fabric manufacturers are under pressure more than ever. Weavers around the world are
fighting against higher costs in terms of labor, raw material, production time and reduced energy
consumption to remain competitive. In turn, the machinery suppliers are challenged to provide
up-to-date machinery.

In times of increasing energy costs, it is of utmost interest for fabric producers to use
weaving machines that offer reduced energy consumption.

The Adaptive Relay Valve Drive (ARVD) for Picanol’s OMNIplus 800 air-jet weaving machine
lowers air consumption and thus reduces energy costs.

C) Power loom sector: 
Mainly synthetic and specialized products are produced. Share, lungi, and gamcha also produced at this sector. Local primary textile industry meets 90% of domestic fabric demand.

·              No. of units – 1065

·              Production capacity – 40 core meter

·              Employment -43,000

D) Hand loom:
This sector is very old and traditional sector of Bangladesh. Jamdani, and banarosi like luxurious share are produced by this sector. The hand loom industry provides employment for a large segment of the rural population of Bangladesh. It also helps in self employment of rural women.

·              No. of units – 1,83,512

·              Production capacity – 837 core mtr.

·              No. of hand looms – 5.05 lakh

·              Employment – 10.2 lakh (50% female)

·              The industry also supplies a large portion of the fabric required by the local market.

·              Bangladesh hand loom board looks after the sector.

E) Knitting, knit dyeing: 
There are two types of knitting and knit dyeing factory in Bangladesh. Some factory produce fabric for export demand and large no. of factory produce knit fabric for domestic need. Local knit sector can supply 80% of knit fabric for knit RMG.

No. of units-

·              Export oriented 800

·              Local 2000

Production capacity -

·              Export 360.0 meter.

·              Domestic 50.0 core meter

Employment- 60,000 

F) Dyeing and finishing sector: 
These mill process the grey woven and knit fabric and produce different colored dyed and printed fabric. During wet processing of fabric these mills consume a huge amount of underground water and produced waste water (effluent).

·              No. of units – 320

·              Production capacity – 172.0 core meter.

·              Employment – 33,000 

G) RMG sector in Bangladesh:

·              No. of units – 5063

·              Production capacity – 22.323 core dozen

·              Employment 36 lakh, where 80% are female workers.

Contribution of RMG sector in national economy of Bangladesh: 

·              In fiscal 2010-11, the contribution of RMG (woven and knitwear) to national export was 78.14 percent or $17.91 billion compared with 77.12 percent or 412.50 billion in fiscal 2009-11.

·              Total export was $22.93 billion in 2010-11.

·              Knit wear export $9.49 billion (41.79%)

·              Woven garments export $8.43 billion (36.79%)

·              In home textile, terry towel and specialized textile were included in the RMG sector, the share of the total export would cross 80 percent in fiscal 2010-11.

·              In 2010-11, earnings from home textile export were worth $78.88 core, (3.44%) while terry towel earned 412.0 core (0.52%).

Future Prospects and Challenges in Bangladesh Textile Sector: 

1.         As the population is growing and the standard of living is increasing in Bangladesh, the demand for textiles is increasing rapidly.

2.         Moreover, growth rate of RMG export will continue as Bangladesh has edge over other competitors due to low labor cost.

3.         This present an urgent need to dramatically increase capacities in spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, printing and finishing sub-sectors.

4.         This will require the adoption of the most modern and appropriate technology to ensure quality products at competitive prices.

5.         To be competitive in the global market both in terms of cost and quality.

6.         Production and export of high value added products for higher retention of foreign exchange.

7.         To get free excess to the USA market.

8.         Diversification of export items and finding new destination for export.

9.         To keep up the high growth rate of RMG export.

10.   Expansion of infrastructure such as road, port, and railway capacities to accommodate import and exports.

11.   Shortage of gas and power supply.

12.   Environmental pollution.

13.   Financial new textile projects and high cost of borrowing.

14.   Lack of technical and market research facilities.

15.   Shortage of skilled manpower.

Textile sector of Bangladesh at a glance

Recent challenges in Bangladesh RMG and possible way outs

Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has announced an export goal three years ago in Apparel Summit 2014 for increasing annual export of readymade garments to US$50 billion by 2021 on the 50^th anniversary of the People’s Republic of Bangladesh. The goal was literally ambitious but it was not impossible. However, the path of the success has not been bed of roses for Bangladesh RMG sector as it began its historical journey over three decades ago.

Some of the problems that threatened the remarkable success of Bangladesh garment sector that are the financial crisis of 2008,Tazreen fire accident, Rana Plaza collapse, the Trans-Pacific Partnership Agreement (TPP) and the withdrawal of generalized system of preference (GSP) by America. The unexpected damage to the image of the sector may still be haunting the minds of garment makers.

Important recent parameters in RMG industry